My wedding dress!

Hi sewing friends!

It's been a while since I posted here--our engagement has been long and difficult, and my life has kicked into high gear in the meantime.  I've been sewing, though, slowly but steadily, and cooking and baking and fermenting and homebrewing and all of the other things that keep me grounded in difficult times.  The first thing to go, though, is always sharing my projects in a public space like this one.

My wedding dress is by no means the only sewing project I completed in the last few months, but it was the most challenging and I think the most important.

In the planning phase, I was particularly drawn to Claire McCardell's dresses in silk jersey--I posted a few on my inspiration board.  I love the contrast between a structured midriff and a soft, drapey skirt and bodice, and McCardell's designs get it perfectly right.  This is my version--a pretty good try, anyway.  There will be no pictures of the inside because a rapidly approaching and non-negotiable deadline does not make for the cleanest interior finish.

I opted for floor length because I may never have another chance to wear a real, full-length formal gown.  I'm planning to hem it to ankle length later, and hopefully wear it again, if I'm ever invited to anything fancy enough.

The veil is just a yard of cotton/silk voile I had in my stash from last year, scalloped at the edges and pinned to my bun.  Here's a picture of it in action:

As for the event itself: it was lovely!  We got married in our backyard, with my parents as the officiants, and Dear Wife's mother read a passage from the Bible, which was very meaningful to both of us as she has had a difficult time coming to terms with our marriage.  I almost can't believe that all the people we love came together in one room to celebrate our (legally binding!) union.  I am a lucky, lucky woman.

Blouses, Hats, & Weddings

As you may have noticed, things have been slow around here--I'm not the most regular blogger at the best of times, but wedding planning, work, and long unstructured days have been really getting to me lately.  It's not for lack of sewing, though!

The blouse that I talked about drafting last month came together quick and easy, and looks great:

It's wound up in at least one outfit a week and always gets compliments.  I'm particularly happy with how the sleeves turned out:

I widened them a bit so they could be comfortably rolled up.  The sleevecap pleat, though, was a happy accident: I was aiming for a regular pleat but got mixed up and made an inverted one instead:

I love the way it looks!  For a long time I thought I hated sleevecap ease--I kept picturing those weird pouffy leg-o'-mutton things from the thirties--but with a nice crisp pleat like this, it does really nice things for my shoulders.  At least that's what Dear Fiancee says.

Speaking of--we've set a date for our wedding, and it will be October 6!  Our wedding website is up at AdventuresInGayMarriage.com, so please visit and leave us a nice guestbook comment.  :)  There's a blog there as well, so as my wedding dress comes together (the next big project on my list...) I will likely be updating there as well.  I'm hoping that more blogs = more blogging.  I guess we'll see.

P.S. The last photo also documents my second shot at millinery (the first being here).  I may have mentioned before that my landlady used to work in theatre--she was the previous owner of my beloved dress form, Dottie--and she just happened to leave a wooden hat block in the house, conveniently sized to my measurements.  I used it to make up the pattern for this sun hat and it was a total breeze--just like draping on a dress form, but in miniature.  There was a refreshing lack of math (all too present in flat pattern designing).

Anyway, I'm pretty happy with it--though the next iteration will probably have wire in the brim for shape, and definitely ribbons to tie under my chin so the wind doesn't blow it away.  I'm not too proud to look like a doofus if it means my ears won't get sunburnt.

The "Oh My God, I Made These, I'm So Awesome" Jeans

Time I spent talking about making jeans, considering making jeans, idly thinking about making jeans, telling people I was going to make jeans seriously really soon like maybe this weekend: approximately six months.

Time I spent actually making jeans: fifteen hours, tops (counting the trip to Joann's to pick up the denim).

Jeans: high-waisted medium-wash denim jeans with two back pockets, two hip pockets, five belt loops, back yoke, gold topstitching, contrast pocketing & waistband facing, side jeans zip and jeans button.

I Made Underpants!

I know, I know.

Pilch knickers: in green seersucker with darts, a button placket, and some buttons from one of those dollar-a-bag button lots at my local fabric store.

Secret Christmas Blouse Part 2

My sewing career has been a strange and uneven one.  I spent a lot of time on the Craftster forums in high school, posting pictures of my hilarious, lopsided halter tops; then I made a few things in my college dorm room that were reasonably wearable, if you don't mind mismatched plaids and unfinished seams.  (I know I made an A-line skirt in some kind of wool blend fabric with tiny dogs embroidered on it--I hope I didn't get rid of that thing.  It was kind of awesome.)  Essentially, I sewed at about the same (beginner) level for five years or so, before I finally sucked it up and learned how to draft patterns by a method other than "eyeballing it."

This is all to say that I am finally, finally skilled enough to make a stupid back-button blouse.

Secret Christmas blouse: back-button blouse in wool jersey.  That's about it really.

I Feel Like Someone Will Get Mad At Me For Calling This Steampunk...

...but at least I used thread and not glue?  

No matter!  Friends, the only steampunk thing about this skirt is the buttons.  It's much too short to be convincingly nineteenth-century.  Incidentally, I mark two hemlines on all my skirt patterns: just below the knee, or "summer length," and this mid-calf style, or "winter length."

Steampunk skirt: four-gore A-line skirt in the leftover wool flannel from these trousers, with a side zip, belt loops, notched back waistband, and Steampunk Buttons!

Crafty Christmas & How to Make Handkerchiefs

I went minimalist this Christmas: nuclear family only, all homemade, nothing fancy.  I didn't post any process photos, since let's face it the primary audience for this blog is my mom and I didn't want to spoil anybody, but now that Christmas is well over, here's a recap of what I made!

Lace-Up Trousers

Mission accomplished!

Lace-up trousers: high-waisted straight-leg trousers in plaid wool flannel, with notched waistband, belt loops, front pocket, and laces!

They came out looking distinctly more seventies than I expected, but I love 'em anyway.  I've really said most of what I have to say about these trousers--they were a pain in the ass, but I finished them anyway, in a mad burst of speed less than an hour before the Christmas party I wanted to wear them to.  Their dominant feature is probably the laces:

Status Report: Quite Accomplished

Life developments of the nuptial variety have been absorbing much of my time lately (not to mention the usual slog of writing/reading/teaching[/eating/sleeping], week in and week out), but never fear: I'm still sewing!  The ever-encroaching Syracuse winter is a strong motivator to supplement my winter wardrobe.  With my wardrobe gaps in mind, as well as the adaptations necessary to turn my fall wardrobe into a winter one, I've created this outfit:






Refashioned sweater vest!:  I bought this sweater at the Salvation Army because it was all-wool (originally from Banana Republic) and a gorgeous color red, but when I tried it on it was definitely too tight at the armscye (and besides, three-quarter-sleeve tight crewneck sweaters are not my style).  I cut off the arms, deepened the sleeve openings a little, and finished them with the same bias tape from my chemise dress for a white accent that barely shows when I move my arms.  The sleeves were the perfect length to use as-is for leg warmers (a little droopy, but super warm!)  You can see both in the video above, which Dear Fiancée made to test her new iPhone.

I've got a petticoat sewn up and awaiting a waistband and hem--an adjusted trouser pattern in progress, in plaid wool flannel--an A-line skirt pattern to cut out in same--and the glimmerings of a plan for a back-button blouse in army-green wool jersey (Claire McCardell and I agree on the eternal appropriateness of wool jersey).  My sewing room is a mess, but I sleep easy in the knowledge that I will have no shortage of projects for the winter break.

Coming up: Pants issues, and how; also, I have some lightweight wool suiting and I have no idea what to do with it--I'll be asking your advice!

Chemise Dress, Take Two

The stars aligned--my omens were propitious--I needed something clean to sleep in--so I sewed another chemise!

It's a bit see-through, so I'll let Dottie model it (that immodest slattern):

Chemise: Cotton muslin, made with this pattern, only I made it a little wider at the sleeves and hem (for comfy sleeping) and a few inches shorter (for lack of material).

I Just Keep On Amazing Myself, Sweater Edition

Dear readers, despite my previous frustration, I do seem to be making some progress on my wardrobe gaps. First off, I picked up a men's extra-large wool sweater at the Salvation Army, cut it apart, and reassembled to make this cute little number:

Sweater: men's wool sweater repurposed into a forties-style women's sweater.

Skirt: see here (I wasn't kidding when I said I wore it all the time).

What I Am Now Calling "The Dustbowl Skirt"

 Front view:

and back view:

 Skirt: tea-length full skirt in charcoal wool flannel, with narrow waistband, side zip, and two-button closure (worn layered over this dress/slip/nightgown hybrid).

The Dressing-Gown You've All Been Waiting For

Isn't it glam?


Dressing-gown: plaid cotton flannel with long sleeves, turnback lapels, patch pockets, and a wrap-style button waist.

Maroon Forties Blouse, Cloche Hat, & One From the Vaults

It feels like I've made this blouse a million times, but really it's only been three.  The first is blogged here; the second I haven't gotten around to photographing properly yet; and behold the third:

(Forgive the picture; I think Dear Partner said something funny and then the camera went off halfway into my laugh.)

But that's not all that's new.  To whit:

Blouse: long-sleeved button up with saddle yoke, convertible collar, winged lapels (that's what I'm calling them anyway), and moderate bishop sleeves.

Hat: wool cloche hat, lined in cotton lawn, with vintage lace trim.

Skirt: five-gored skirt in wool, with godets at the hem and a back zip.

The Bowling Shirt, Vintage Style

I lied--it's not really a bowling shirt.  I ran out of fabric due to my own short-sightedness, then decided to go for a contrast yoke a la New Vintage Lady.  It looks awesome.

Blouse: short-sleeved casual button-up with convertible collar, six-button front, and contrast saddle yoke.

The Sweetheart Dress

Oof, this took me forever to write.  I've been TA-ing a creative writing camp for high schoolers, and it's more exhausting than I expected.  I'm lucky to have such talented kids, though.  I'm learning a thing or two for sure.  In any case, here's that long-awaited Sweetheart Dress:

Dress:  A short-sleeved, full-skirted dress with a sweetheart neckline and a lapped back zip.  Did you notice how it has sleeves?  Yes!  For real!  They're darted, even, or sort of pleated (can't tell the different with sleeves), which I find much easier and more attractive than gathering the sleevecap.  It's my new favorite technique.

The Best Apron Ever

I'm running a little late on a full outfit post for this dress, but in the meantime, check out this story in pictures:

In Which, Having Invented Sleeves, I Impersonate A Flamingo

Note to self: do not wear black in hundred-degree Kentucky weather.

(If you can't see the sweat beading up on my neck, it's not because it isn't there.)

Dress: A simple black chemise dress in cotton lawn with short sleeves, slightly gathered portrait neckline, and self-sash.

Sailor Shorts: Kentucky Edition

HELLO EVERYONE.  I'm in Kentucky visiting my family, so today's photos are from a (relatively) exotic locale: my dad's garden!

I found Queen Anne's Lace!  It is my favorite flower because it sounds fancy but is kind of a weed.

Shorts: adapted from my Sailor Pants pattern--high waisted, with five belt loops and a button placket down the left side.  That's right.  I invented buttons for these shorts.

Dress Your Best, in Seersucker

I made this dress about a month ago, and it's taken me this long to get it photographed!  I thought it would be perfect for Dress Your Best, since it shows off all my favorite parts of my body.

Dress: Blue stripe seersucker.  The bodice fullness is taken out with four large darts at the front waist, and the back bodice has waistline and shoulder darts.  The skirt is gathered, dirndl-style.  It is mad comfortable.