What Do I Do With This Wool Suiting?

Pics:

It's 60" wide and I have two and a half yards--wiggle dress?  Circle skirt and short drapey jacket?  It drapes oh so nice and has mild-to-moderate fray.  I have the opposite problem from many sewing bloggers in that I have a small but growing wardrobe of practical separates (you can never have enough) and zero me-made dress outfits, so as resistant as I am to sewing special-occasion garments, that's probably the direction I should go here.

Any pattern suggestions (I draft my own, but I often use vintage patterns as a model)?  Y'all know how I love vintage silhouettes.  Hit me with your best shot.

Pants: The Anger

Pants, why do you fail me so?  I spent ages drafting this pattern from my original sailor pants pattern--narrowing the leg, mainly, and I'll get into where I went wrong there--then sewed it up in a lovely plaid wool flannel (being careful to match the plaids even though the print is tiny and unobtrusive!)--and what do I get?  Chaos.  Side seams that won't meet, much less lap over a zipper.  Lines where the fabric pulls over my (nice and round) tummy.  A seat so tight the stitches pop when I sit down.

At this point, I've made a million adjustments (probably more like five) and I'm just tired of stitching and restitching the same stupid seams.  I started out carefully basting but by the third time 'round I was just stitching recklessly with no thought for the future.

The problems may be many, but I don't want to just ditch these guys--too much work has gone into them.  I think the plan now is to make them into lace-up pants--stitch a modesty panel behind the side seam opening, throw some facings on the seam edges, put in a couple of impromptu eyelets, and lace up the side.  Yes?  No?  I just can't face throwing them away.  I will find a way to make this work.  And then I will add some ease over the hip, as I think I accidentally pared away too much when I was narrowing the leg.  The more you know!

Status Report: Quite Accomplished

Life developments of the nuptial variety have been absorbing much of my time lately (not to mention the usual slog of writing/reading/teaching[/eating/sleeping], week in and week out), but never fear: I'm still sewing!  The ever-encroaching Syracuse winter is a strong motivator to supplement my winter wardrobe.  With my wardrobe gaps in mind, as well as the adaptations necessary to turn my fall wardrobe into a winter one, I've created this outfit:






Refashioned sweater vest!:  I bought this sweater at the Salvation Army because it was all-wool (originally from Banana Republic) and a gorgeous color red, but when I tried it on it was definitely too tight at the armscye (and besides, three-quarter-sleeve tight crewneck sweaters are not my style).  I cut off the arms, deepened the sleeve openings a little, and finished them with the same bias tape from my chemise dress for a white accent that barely shows when I move my arms.  The sleeves were the perfect length to use as-is for leg warmers (a little droopy, but super warm!)  You can see both in the video above, which Dear Fiancée made to test her new iPhone.

I've got a petticoat sewn up and awaiting a waistband and hem--an adjusted trouser pattern in progress, in plaid wool flannel--an A-line skirt pattern to cut out in same--and the glimmerings of a plan for a back-button blouse in army-green wool jersey (Claire McCardell and I agree on the eternal appropriateness of wool jersey).  My sewing room is a mess, but I sleep easy in the knowledge that I will have no shortage of projects for the winter break.

Coming up: Pants issues, and how; also, I have some lightweight wool suiting and I have no idea what to do with it--I'll be asking your advice!

Chemise Dress, Take Two

The stars aligned--my omens were propitious--I needed something clean to sleep in--so I sewed another chemise!

It's a bit see-through, so I'll let Dottie model it (that immodest slattern):

Chemise: Cotton muslin, made with this pattern, only I made it a little wider at the sleeves and hem (for comfy sleeping) and a few inches shorter (for lack of material).

I'm Obsessed With:

...these British Pathé short films.

Just search for "fashion" and set the decade for the 1940s, and it's a wonderful historical resource and source of inspiration.  For instance, check out this May 1945 video (I wish I could embed it, but the technology won't bend to my will).

The narrator implies that rationing will soon be over, but in fact it would be in force for another four years.  Sorry, girls--those frills and fripperies will have to wait.

(Thanks to CargoCultCraft for the link; I never would have found this amazing resource on my own!)

Autumnal Whole Wheat Pancakes, Or, Joy For Your Belly

I know it's been a while since I put up a recipe here--that's because I've been too busy to do much baking!  Teaching can really eat your life if you're not careful.  Anyway, we've been eating these pancakes at least three times a week lately.  The whole wheat gives them an excellent, chewy, dense texture, and makes them really stick to your ribs, and the apple cider lends a slight appley flavor without being overwhelming.  Give it a shot.  (This recipe is adapted from Mark Bittman's "Everyday Pancakes" recipe in How to Cook Everything Vegetarian, my food bible.)

Autumnal Whole Wheat Pancakes

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup whole-wheat flour
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp salt

1 cup buttermilk (plus up to 1/4 cup extra if needed)
1/2 cup apple cider
2 eggs
splash vanilla extract
2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted and cooled

extra butter for the skillet

In a large bowl, mix the dry ingredients thoroughly.  In a small bowl (or four-cup liquid measure), combine the buttermilk and cider.  Beat in the eggs, then add the vanilla and butter.  Pour the wet ingredients into the dry, and stir until mostly combined (a few lumps are okay).  You should be able to pour it thickly--if it won't pour, add a little more buttermilk.

Now, put a large skillet over medium heat.  This batter can handle tiny silver-dollar pancakes or giant ones as big as your head--just cook them until the bubbles that form in the center leave little craters.  In my house, we bang the spatula against the edge of the pan every so often to pop the bubbles and see if it's ready.  When they start to get all craterfacey, flip 'em and brown the other side.  Serve hot with butter (apple butter is also a great choice), syrup, and a large glass of cold milk.

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Side note: I used homemade butter and buttermilk for this recipe, and boy howdy did it make a difference.  I found this tutorial easy to follow, and it barely took five or six minutes of shaking before the butter magically appeared!  I added a teaspoon or so of apple cider vinegar to my buttermilk, since the real stuff tastes more like skim milk than the cultured stuff from the store.  Give it a shot--you will not regret it.

I Just Keep On Amazing Myself, Sweater Edition

Dear readers, despite my previous frustration, I do seem to be making some progress on my wardrobe gaps. First off, I picked up a men's extra-large wool sweater at the Salvation Army, cut it apart, and reassembled to make this cute little number:

Sweater: men's wool sweater repurposed into a forties-style women's sweater.

Skirt: see here (I wasn't kidding when I said I wore it all the time).